Call/Text 866-266-5709

8:05 a.m.: the call

You call 866-266-5709 from a kitchen in Quail Hollow. The person who answers asks what’s on the wall, how old the system is, whether it’s been serviced, and which section you’re in. That last question isn’t small talk; the dispatcher is slotting you into the day’s route for your part of the city. You’re offered a window; ask how far out the next maintenance slot is, since the first hot week of May books faster than the shoulder seasons.

If anything you say sounds like a fault rather than wear, a smell, a breaker, water on the floor, the booking becomes a repair call and moves up the list.

Before we come: the homeowner checklist

There’s a short list of things you can do yourself, and doing them makes the visit more useful.

  • Look at the outdoor unit. Pull leaves, palm fronds and grass clippings off the base and out of the fins. Trim anything within two feet. If the fins look chalky white, especially on canal, Intracoastal or Hammock homes, tell us; that’s salt.
  • Pull the filter. Hold it to the light. If you can’t see through it, replace it now rather than waiting for us; we’ll check the new one, and you’ll have a spare.
  • Find the drain line. It’s the PVC pipe exiting near the air handler or outside near the condenser. If there’s water pooling at the end, or none at all on a humid day, note it.
  • Walk the registers. Any room that never keeps up, any vent that barely blows. Write it down.
  • Check the thermostat history, if it’s a smart model. Long run times or AUX showing in mild weather are worth mentioning.
  • Gather the paperwork. Install date, model numbers, the last service invoice. Helps us know what’s original and what’s been replaced.
Homeowner clearing debris from around an outdoor heat pump unit before a maintenance visit
Two feet of clearance and a clear base. The ten-minute homeowner job that makes the technician's hour count.

Where to stop and hand it over

Some things you should not touch. Stop and phone us if you see:

  1. Ice on the copper lines or the outdoor coil. Turn the system off and leave it off.
  2. A burnt or fishy electrical smell at the air handler. Shut it down at the breaker.
  3. Water in the drain pan or on the garage floor. The float switch should have tripped; if it didn’t, there may not be one.
  4. The breaker trips more than once. Don’t keep resetting it.
  5. Buzzing or clicking at the outdoor unit with the fan not turning.

Those move the visit from “tune-up” to “repair” and usually move it to today.

10:30 a.m.: what the technician does

The truck pulls in on time; if it’s running late, you get a call. Sean or one of the technicians introduces himself and starts outside.

  1. Outdoor unit, power off: cabinet opened, capacitor measured against its rating, contactor inspected, wiring tightened, fan motor amps logged, coil rinsed from the inside out, fins straightened, base cleared.
  2. Indoor unit: filter checked, blower wheel inspected, evaporator coil examined for the biofilm that mid-70s dew points grow, drain line flushed and trap cleared, float switch tested, pan treated.
  3. Electrical and controls: thermostat calibrated and its heat-pump configuration verified, strip heat energized and amp-tested, sequencers checked, defrost board cycled.
  4. Refrigerant: pressures and temperatures recorded in cooling mode, then the system switched to heating and the reversing valve watched as it shifts. Charge compared to the chart for the day.
  5. Airflow: static pressure across the air handler, temperature split at a supply register, and a look at the duct in the attic if the numbers say something’s restricting it. In boom-era Quail Hollow attics, something often is.

Book a spring or fall tune-up

Noon: the report

Back at the kitchen island, you get the findings on a tablet and a copy by email. Three columns: fine, wearing, plan for. A capacitor at 85 percent is “wearing.” A coil with a corrosion patch on an Intracoastal home is “plan for.” A duct run that’s pulled off the boot is a quote, separate, no pressure.

If a repair is needed and the part’s on the truck, you can approve it then and it’s done before the technician leaves. If not, you get a price and a timeline.

After we leave

The report has a date on it: the next window. Spring visits land in March or April before the heat; fall visits in October or November before the first freeze night. Between visits, the job is yours and it’s small: filters monthly through oak-pollen season, February to April, and every six to eight weeks the rest of the cooling season; a glance at the outdoor unit after any storm; a call if AUX appears when it shouldn’t.

Maintenance agreements bundle both visits with priority scheduling during the May and December rushes and a discount on any repair. The specifics are easiest to explain at the island with the report in front of you. [[CONFIRM WITH JERRY: current agreement pricing and inclusions]]

Documented service also protects your manufacturer’s warranty, which is the quiet reason the report is in writing.

Tune-up questions, Palm Coast edition

We barely use heat. Is there any point to a fall visit?

The fall visit is when we run the system in heating mode on purpose, test the strips and the defrost cycle, and catch the reversing valve that’s been sticking since spring. The thirty nights a year you need heat tend to arrive together, and a fall check is how you’re not on the no-heat list that week.

Will someone remind me when the next visit is due?

Agreement customers get a call or text when their spring and fall windows open. If you’re not on an agreement, we note the date on the report and you call us. [[CONFIRM WITH JERRY: whether reminders are offered outside of agreements]]

Twice a year sounds like a lot. Is it?

For a machine that runs nine months of cooling and then switches jobs, no. One visit catches the summer wear; the other confirms heating mode before it’s needed. Waterfront and Hammock homes benefit from a coil rinse in between.

What's the difference between a tune-up and just changing the filter?

A filter change is a filter change. A tune-up measures the capacitor, the amp draws, the refrigerant pressures in both modes and the static pressure, cleans the coils and the drain, and tells you in writing what’s wearing. The filter is step one of about twenty.

Other services in Palm Coast

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